The simplest stun gun circuit. How to make a shocker at home. Powerful electric shock with your own hands. What does a stun gun consist of?

Ensuring human safety plays an important role, which is why many choose various means of protection. Pneumatic or, for example, firearms are not always available and are also unsafe. A stun gun is a self-defense device that does not require a license. For this reason, this type of protection has been quite popular for many years.

The choice of such devices is now quite wide, but you can make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram presented below will help you figure it out quickly and easily. A homemade stun gun does not pose any danger to others and can only be used for self-defense. In the article we will talk about what this device is and how it works. In addition, we will tell you how to do it and what are the features of its use.

Types of stun guns

Modern factory stun guns come in various types. Externally, they can be of different sizes, vary in power, and even have a body in the form of objects such as a flashlight, pen, pistol, lipstick, etc. The device can be powered by batteries or an accumulator. Batteries are installed in less powerful models. Sparking in a stun gun can be low- or high-frequency. Devices with a frequency of 50-80 Hz cause pain in the first second, but do not cause severe harm. As a rule, they can only scare. Devices with a frequency of more than 100 Hz allow you to temporarily neutralize the attacker. Stun guns differ from each other in that low-frequency ones produce a crackling sound, while high-frequency ones produce a buzzing sound. You can independently determine which stun gun is in front of you experimentally: more powerful devices can set fire to paper.

Such devices are used for self-defense with the aim of neutralizing an attacker by delivering an electrical discharge. The stun gun creates a strong pain effect and acts on the muscles, paralyzing the attacker for a certain time. This device is only permitted to be used by persons who have reached the age of majority. Whether to purchase a stun gun from a specialized store or to make it yourself is an individual decision for everyone. Buying a ready-made device is quite expensive, but simple. There is an alternative option - try to make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram of such a device clearly shows what we will have to face.

The choice of such devices is very large. They differ not only in appearance and power, but also in cost. The circuit of the simplest stun gun does not require high knowledge in the field of electronics; the necessary parts are also available for purchase. The manufacture of such a means of self-defense cannot be called very simple; moreover, the device must meet a number of requirements. The electrical circuit of the stun gun must be thought out so that the device is:

compact, invisible, not causing inconvenience when moving;
powerful, capable of neutralizing the attacker and giving you a few seconds to respond;
rechargeable, since no one needs a disposable tool.

If you decide to make a stun gun yourself, remember that a device of simple design should not consume a lot of energy. A high-quality device, taking into account all the necessary recommendations, will serve properly for a long time and provide reliable protection from intruders.

What you need to make your own stun gun:

Soldering iron for fusing parts.
Converter.
Ferrite rod.
Capacitor.
Arrester.
Wire.
Transformer.
Epoxy resin.
Insulating tape.

Principle of operation

What is the principle of operation of a stun gun? The diagram given in the article assumes the following: the igniting capacitor acts on the transformer, resulting in a spark that pierces several centimeters of air. The capacitor at this moment directly hits with all its energy. The use of a conductive channel allows the charge to be carried out without large losses, while maintaining not only the power of the device, but also its convenient dimensions. How to make a stun gun at home? Let's get to work.

The transformer is the main part of the device, one of the most difficult to manufacture. To operate, you will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It will be necessary to wind an enameled wire (0.01 mm) around it. You need to wind until there is about 1.5 mm of space left in the core. An excellent result will be obtained if you wrap it with electrical tape. The result will be 5-6 layers.

It should be noted that it is quite difficult for non-professionals to make a stun gun with their own hands. The circuit may seem quite simple, but during production there are many details that must be taken into account. This is especially true for isolation. The wound wire must be insulated with one layer of electrical tape, and then another 6 turns must be made, but with a denser wire with a diameter of about 0.8 mm. When making the third turn, you will need to stop and twist, after which you can continue and add 3 more turns. You can ensure the strength of the structure using superglue. To complete the work, the cups need to be glued or wrapped again with electrical tape. Contacts should not have contact with the environment, otherwise we risk causing electric shock to ourselves instead of defense.

Next, for work you will need a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 5 cm, made of polypropylene. In a stun gun, this part will be a sectional frame. To do this, you need to use a drill to fix a bolt that will fit the tube in diameter, and carefully grind the grooves using an emery cloth. It is important not to damage the pipe during operation and end up with sections measuring 2 by 2 mm. After this, you need to use a stationery knife to make a cut up to 3 mm wide along the frame without damaging the pipe.

Second phase

So, we continue to consider how to make a stun gun with your own hands. For subsequent work, you will need a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. It must be wound around all sections of the frame, but it should not go beyond the frame. For more convenient work, it is advisable to solder the beginning of the wire or secure it well with glue; leave the end free.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 50 mm must be processed using an emery wheel. The result should be a round part. The ferrite rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and 20 turns made on top. You need to use the same wire as for the first transformer, that is, 0.8 mm. Be sure to wind in the same direction, after which you need to insulate the wire in several layers.

The main part for a homemade stun gun

The prepared rod must be inserted inside the frame, from the side where the HV winding ends, and the two windings must be connected together. After this, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. It only needs to be melted, but not heated to high temperature. You need to pour in paraffin with a reserve, because after hardening it will settle a little. It will be easier to cut off the excess part. Now we have the main part that will allow us to make a stun gun with our own hands. The diagram clearly shows the location of the main elements.

Charging the device

The igniting condenser is charged through the bridge, and the combat one is charged through additional diodes. Thanks to this, one circuit is not created. Any transistor can be used; there are also no special requirements for the resistor. The capacitor provides inrush current limitation and serves to protect the converter. If the stun gun assembly circuit involves installing a powerful transistor, then the capacitor does not need to be used.

AA size batteries are installed in the amount of 6 pieces. Transistors are mounted on a radiator. It is desirable that it have insulating gaskets. We install all prepared parts. The most important thing is that you need to fix the HV pins, the distance between which should be more than 15 mm. Otherwise, the stun gun has every chance of quickly burning out.

Charge frequency

Whether to use a charger for a stun gun or not depends on the desire of the owner. Batteries are best for power supply. The stun gun does not require any specific settings; it should work immediately. If you use these batteries, the discharge frequency should be close to 35 Hertz. If this value is lower, the transformer may be incorrectly or poorly wound, or other transistors should be selected. You need to experimentally select the frequency of discharges. This is done by routing contacts. The discharge frequency must be tested for 5 seconds. The distance should not be as wide as possible, otherwise the stun gun may burn out at one point. Note that air breakdown is affected by pressure, humidity and other external conditions.

Frame

What do you need for a homemade stun gun? Thick cardboard is suitable as the body of the device, on which you can immediately draw the location of all the parts, and then begin installing and fastening them. It is best to bend the material with pliers. Glue is applied to the outside. It is important to ensure the tightness of the seam. It is better to first place the parts inside the case, and then begin to fix them one by one.

Designate a location for charging the battery and the start button. It is advisable to treat the stun gun with heat shrink; this will help to recess some elements a little inside and provide very good protection from the external environment. After using the heat shrink, you need to check the operation of the stun gun again. Aluminum rivets should be used as protective electrodes.

The final stage of production

After checking the operation of the stun gun and the tightness of the entire system, you can begin to fill the device with epoxy resin. After this you need to wait 6-7 hours. At this stage, you can cut off the excess parts and give it a convenient shape before the epoxy hardens too much. You can sand the device and then coat the finished body with varnish. The operating instructions for the stun gun do not require any special explanation. This device is used for self-defense, does not cause much harm to health and does not require a license.

Stun gun power

If the spark between the contacts of the device is small and raises doubts about the effectiveness, then you can check it. How to increase the power of a stun gun? For this purpose, it is sufficient to use a regular mains fuse, which must be placed between the contacts without creating direct interaction between them. If the fuse blows, this will indicate that the output current is already more than 250 mA. The result of competent work is a compact and reliable means of protection with the necessary power.

Shooting stun gun

Let's take a closer look at what such a device looks like. more difficult to perform. For this reason, many people prefer the regular model of the device. This device works as follows: a special unit is installed in it, which is directly connected to the source of electricity by high-voltage wires; at the moment when the block hits the target, voltage is applied to the electrodes and an electric shock occurs. The design itself is difficult to manufacture. To operate you will need a firing system and special wires. The disadvantages of such a stun gun also include the fact that the device must be recharged after use. If there are multiple attackers, some difficulties may arise and the stun gun will not provide adequate protection.

Safety when using a stun gun

It is important to remember that the device should only be used for its intended purpose and when danger arises. A stun gun is not fatal. But if a person suffers from heart disease, he may die. An electric shock to the chest area is dangerous even for a healthy person. It is safe and effective to use the device in the abdominal muscles, where those responsible for coordinating movements are located. This application will allow the intruder to be incapacitated for some time.

Improper use of a stun gun can cause harm to the owner. For example, in humid weather you can get it yourself. A stun gun must not be used in water, near an open fire, or near explosive objects. The thickness of the attacker's clothing does not affect the performance of the device. It is important to observe the time of exposure of a person to a stun gun. To lose orientation and cause pain, using the device for 1-2 seconds is enough. Its prolonged use is unacceptable, as it can lead to fatal electric shock. The effect of using the device lasts on average 20 minutes. In this case, contact with the following areas should be avoided:

Chest area. The heart may fail, and the user is charged with exceeding the necessary self-defense, resulting in death.
Solar plexus. The person may suffocate.
Head. Possible cerebral hemorrhage.

There are a lot of ways to create a stun gun at home, and we have considered only one of them. In each case, you need to take into account certain features and subtleties so as not to spoil the details and not to redo the work several times. The material for making a stun gun and the result of the efforts depend on the skill and experience of the specialist. You can buy the necessary parts or get them from other unnecessary equipment. Additionally, the device can be equipped with a flashlight for convenience. It depends on personal wishes.

There are a large number of different models of stun guns on the market, which also differ in power. For self-defense purposes, it is allowed to use a stun gun up to 3 W, and only after reaching the age of majority. Devices with higher power are permitted only for intelligence agencies. Now you know how to make a stun gun at home. We hope that our article will be useful and will help you make a high-quality self-defense product with your own hands that will fully meet your expectations and will last a long time.

You can find a lot of videos and text materials on production on the Internet. Making most of them requires a lot of money and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.

Let's watch a video on making a stun gun

So, we need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, power supply, a start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.

Since the factory solution for the button location may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button must be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

We will use the most common self-tapping screws as contacts. When searching for them, you need to make sure that they are as identical as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace AA batteries with rechargeable ones.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor removed from the camera flash, but we will not do this.

We insulate the inside of the box to prevent short circuits.

We make a hole on the side for the button, on the top for screws and paint it.

We glue double-sided tape to the bottom of the box and assemble the entire board structure, along with the battery and contacts in the box.

Among the means of self-defense, electric shock devices (ESD) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of their psychological impact on attackers. However, the cost is considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create their own stun gun analogues.

Without claiming super-originality and super-novelty of ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who has at least once in their life dealt with winding a transformer and installing the simplest devices such as a detector radio with an amplifier using one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I propose is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts direct voltage from a power source such as a Krona galvanic battery (Korund, 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into increased alternating voltage, with a standard multiplier U. Very important the element of the ESA is a homemade transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic core for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be split off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, after first filing the original one around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But a transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television fuel assembly. True, in this case you will have to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic core.

The base tube of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm piece of plastic casing from a used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-segment of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on Viniflex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. Winding 2 has almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the old installation fittings for fluorescent lamps, which have seemingly exhausted their service life long ago, and cut them exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three “wire” layers in the author’s version, a wide brush was used to “coat” the resulting winding with epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the “epoxy” was not very viscous) and the capacitor-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Then, without waiting for hardening, the winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven rotation of the frame during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, slightly pulling the wire upward. Anti-breakdown protection was installed between the high-voltage and other windings - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with epoxy.

The ends of the windings are soldered to pins passed through holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without tearing the winding wires from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped in one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the terminals of the windings are pressed against the cheeks and placed with the ends as far apart as possible from each other (especially in the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with 10 minutes of operation (and longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the ESD generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and size of the entire device. This was also facilitated by the use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier. As a result, we managed to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and arrester pins) into a plastic case like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the assembled protective ESA is about 300 g.

In the housing between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions made of sufficiently strong plastic are required - as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and as a precaution to avoid sparks jumping from one radio element of installation to another, as well as as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass whiskers are attached to the outside under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is formed without a “whisker”: between the points of the pins - the working parts, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, “firmware” of the installation inside the housing.

In fact, the idea of a “mustache” was borrowed from “branded” models and designs. As they say, such a technical solution as the use of a slide-type switch has been adopted: in order to avoid self-switching on when the electroshock protective equipment is resting, say, in the chest or side pocket of its owner.

It would be worthwhile, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need to carefully handle the protective ESA, both during the design and commissioning period, and when walking around with a ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alley or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a lot of time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the gym does not guarantee protection, and learning to fight in a month is impossible.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from attacks by intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs; it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult Russian citizen can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will look at one of the many ways to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun with your own hands, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The very fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

A typical representative of an electrical device for self-defense consists of five components: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a surge arrester and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor discharges the accumulated charge with some periodicity to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - that same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be slightly different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

By pressing the button, the igniting capacitor acts in the same way as in the original circuit - it is discharged to the transformer, and it gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

at the moment the spark appears, the fire capacitor is triggered, which sends all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no losses.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the result is the same, if not worse, stun gun, while being one and a half times smaller.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most complex thing - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler cannot bear it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchase it), then no effort will be expended on the manufacture of the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two terminals. It looks like an ordinary spool, like the one that is inserted into a sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin varnished wire with a diameter of approximately 0.1 millimeter is wound into it. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from your alarm clock. Before starting winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

You need to wind it manually until there is about 1.5 millimeters of free space on the reel. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then you won’t need any insulation at all - it’s already in the wire’s design: just roll it in bulk and add a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a couple of rolls of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. Halfway through the winding you need to make a retraction - just twist it and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil to each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most difficult part of making your own stun gun. Since it is impossible to make a standard layer transformer at home, we will simplify the design and make it sectional.

As a base, we will take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after renovating your bathroom, it’s time to use them; if not, buy them at a plumbing store. The main thing is that it is not reinforced with metal. We will need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It’s easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves along its diameter with a width and depth of 2 millimeters every two millimeters. Be careful - you cannot cut through the pipe. After this, cut a groove 3 millimeters wide along the frame.

All that remains is to do the winding. It is made of wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. A lead should be soldered to the beginning of the wire and secured with glue to avoid accidental breakage.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable as a core for a transformer. Suitable material can be found in horizontal scan transformers in old Soviet televisions - you just need to adjust it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape of the rod itself. This is a fairly dusty job, so don't do it at home without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy them at the radio market.

The rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is made along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After this, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit tightly into the tube. On the side where the winding on the tube does not have a soldered wire, solder two windings (outer and inner) together. This way you will get three outputs - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you don’t understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is pouring paraffin. Any will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damaging the internal elements of the transformer. Make a small box slightly higher than the height of the transformer. Place the transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After this, pour paraffin into the box and place it on the radiator so that the paraffin does not cool down and all air bubbles come out. We need a headroom because of the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from scrap materials: wiring

Now it's time to look at the circuit diagram of the stun gun. It looks like this:

The igniting capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

The combat capacitor is charged through additional diodes.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter; the choice of resistors is also not critical. Capacitors of 3300 picofarads are needed to limit the current when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you use high-power transistors (like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not clothing), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of this drawback, place a second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The entire circuit (with the correct arrangement of elements on the board) fits quite well on an area of 4 by 5 centimeters. For power supply, we will take 6 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 300 milliamp-hours, the size of half a AA battery with a power of approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device fits into a housing the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to use aluminum rivets. They have sufficient conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts increases significantly and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not available, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

The assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or the elements can be soldered with wires. But first, it’s better to assemble it on a breadboard so as not to waste time and effort on remaking the board in case something goes wrong. The high-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. It will not require any adjustment and should work immediately after switching on; the sparking frequency is approximately 35 hertz. If it is significantly less, the reason is most likely an incorrectly wound transformer or incorrect transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works well, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed for the device to operate in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last stage - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the body at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but this material has a number of advantages:

solidity;
tightness;
electrical insulation.

To create, you will need the epoxy resin itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

It is better to start the process by cutting out the back cover of the case from cardboard with a pre-drawn plan for the arrangement of parts, and then paste it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using a glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus room for stickers. You need to glue from the outside of the base, while carefully ensuring that the seam is sealed.

After all the strips have been glued, place the circuit elements inside and evaluate the correctness of their arrangement. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything is satisfactory, then check the correct connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible crevices and leave difficult to remove stains on any surface.

It's time to start filling the mold with epoxy resin. Set the filled mold aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be flexible enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete hardening, treat the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, tsaponlak.

As a result, you will receive a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of shocks, falls and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will burn out - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is significant power that can stop even the most zealous and large-sized attacker.

How to make a stun gun?

If we consider self-defense means from the point of view of efficiency, ease of acquisition and use, then a stun gun can be considered the most effective. It does not require licenses or permits from the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and due to its small size and weight it is convenient to carry in your pocket or handbag.

In this article we will look at how a stun gun works and describe how you can make this device with your own hands.

What does a stun gun consist of?

The main elements of the stun gun are the units of the converter, arrester, capacitor and transformer. It works very simply. When you press the button, the charge accumulated in the capacitor enters the transformer, in which its power increases, and a discharge can be seen between the two contacts.

The difficulty in making a stun gun yourself is the transformer. It is almost impossible to make it at home, since it requires special tools, materials and calculations that are simply not widely available. Therefore, we will consider a method for manufacturing a stun gun using a different scheme.

Our stun gun will consist of:

ignition capacitor;
output transformer;
fighting capacitor.

How to make a converter transformer

The transformer is the most complex part of the product, so let's start with it. Winding wire onto a transformer core is a very long, monotonous and delicate process that requires patience and accuracy. First, we need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite.

The armor core is a closed structure, in which there are only holes for wires The core looks like two small cups, between which there is a bobbin, like in a sewing machine. You need to wind a thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm around it. It can be found, for example, in an electronic alarm clock. You need to wind it carefully until there is about 1.5 mm of free space left.

For greater efficiency of the transformer, it is better to wind the wire in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. This way you will get about 5 - 6 layers. After this, you need to insulate everything with two layers of regular electrical tape and wind 6 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.7 - 0.9 mm. On the third turn we make a retraction and finish the remaining three. Finally, we glue the cups together or wrap them with electrical tape.

Making an output transformer

For this we need:

5 - 6 cm of polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 20 mm;
cutter;
wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm;
ferrite rod 2000NM with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm;
insulating tape.

Along the circumference of our pipe we need to make grooves 2 mm deep and 2 mm wide. Next, take a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm and wind it around all sections. It is better to glue or solder a stranded wire to the ends of the wire for more convenient connections.

Now you need to take a ferrite rod with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm. This rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and wound with 20 turns of wire with a cross section of 0.8 mm. We leave 5 - 10 mm at the edges and insulate everything with several layers of electrical tape so that it fits inside the tube quite tightly.

Now you need to connect the two windings together on the side where the HV winding ends. Thus, we will have 3 outputs instead of 4: common point, end of the first winding and HV terminal.

It is best to place transformers in a box and cover them with paraffin. The main thing is not to fill the transformers with hot paraffin, and after pouring you need to place the boxes near the fan heater to remove air bubbles.

How to assemble a stun gun?

We will need a heatsink from a computer on which we need to install a transistor. Radiators need to be insulated, and if there are two radiators, then they need to not touch each other. Can be used as batteries ½ AA NicD batteries. We connect our battery to the capacitor, then to transistors and transformers. We provide an on/off button and place it all in an epoxy housing. It is this material that will best help you make both a regular-sized stun gun and a mini stun gun.

What flowers to give to different zodiac signs

Date of publication: 09.21.2018 Practicality and romanticism, self-demandingness and devotion to loved ones, corrosive perfectionism and breadth of soul, simple-minded directness and bottomless spiritual world - this is all about her, about the mysterious and incomprehensible Virgo. The sixth sign of the Zodi

For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.

The concept of "electric shocker"

A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a self-defense weapon to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by delivering a high-power electrical discharge. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. This device is produced in different shapes, capacities and price categories. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.

The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.

Parts required to assemble a stun gun

The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap ( industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick placed one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.

How to make a transformer correctly

To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation, you can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.

The procedure for assembling a homemade stun gun

After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).

By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.

As a power source, you can use a lithium-ion battery, as in mobile phones (their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with output power up to 7 W and voltage across the arresters more than 10 kV.

Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.

How to make a stun gun from a battery

If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (it can be taken from the mains adapter or charger), an ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.

How to make a stun gun from an electric lighter

If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small, low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter for gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.

In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are slightly bent with wire cutters and the entire finished structure is glued in front with glue to insulate it. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.

Stun gun made from electric lighters for gas stoves

Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.

Film camera stun gun

To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces of copper wire - with a thick layer of insulation and 8-10 cm long - are connected to these wires using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. The batteries are placed in place, and after the manipulations have been done, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coating so that only the dischargers in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.

Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on your knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.

On the Internet you can find many videos and text materials on production. Making most of them requires a lot of money and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.

Let's watch a video on making a stun gun

So, we need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

Since the factory solution for the button location may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button must be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace AA batteries with rechargeable ones.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor removed from the camera flash, but we will not do this.

We insulate the inside of the box to prevent short circuits.

I have been making similar devices for many years, and each time the circuit technology is slightly different. In search of a convenient and very powerful stun gun, I created a whole notebook with the developments of stun guns, and it is these archives that are offered to your attention. The circuit of this shocker on one transistor is very simple - a KT819 converter and a push-pull voltage multiplier. Now think: just two capacitors are not capable of stunning - but you are deeply mistaken, the power of the shocker with a power supply of 12 volts 2 amperes reaches 30 watts, and is capable of half-illuminating an incandescent lamp with a voltage of 220 volts 60 watts.

In the photographs, the shocker is powered by a mobile phone battery with a capacity of 650 mAh, the arc with this power supply is 1 centimeter, but with a power supply of 12 volts the arc reaches 4-5 centimeters. For these parameters, you need to find capacitors with a capacity of 10 kilovolts 22000 picofarads, the code marking is attached to the article. In fact, such imported capacitors can easily be found on the radio market. High-voltage diodes in the voltage multiplier are used - domestic kts106 is the best option.

The converter is assembled on the basis of a simple blocking generator on one transistor, the transistor is KT819/KT805 and its imported analogues, or any other similar parameters. 100 ohm resistor with 1 watt power. The transformer is taken from a computer power supply. The primary winding contains 10 turns with a tap from the middle; it is wound with 4 strands of wire with a diameter of 0.5 millimeters each. Then we insulate the primary winding with several layers of transparent tape and wind the secondary winding, it contains 2000 turns of 0.08 mm wire, we insulate the winding every 80 turns. It is advisable to fill the finished transformer with epoxy resin to avoid breakdowns. And now the main secret of this shocker is the spark gap!

It is no secret to you that the main disadvantage of shockers on a voltage multiplier is that when they come into contact with human skin, the pulses are closed through the resistance of the skin and the capacitors do not have time to charge, the spark gap serves as a reserve gap, that is, charge flows through it constantly, this is voltage enough to paralyze after 1 second of using a shock device. The body is made of plastic; you can use the body of a Chinese LED flashlight. The shocker must be equipped with a non-latching button and a switch. It is convenient to use two batteries from a mobile phone as a power source for this stun gun using one transistor. And in the future we will consider more powerful stun guns with an anti-snatch system and other interesting devices. Stay tuned, author - Arthur Kasyan (AKA).

Electroshock devices are one of the best methods for self-defense.

Today you can find it on the market for civilians with a power of no more than 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, high-power ESAs are available only to government employees, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.

Definitely, the standard 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to construct electric shock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a homemade ESA is quite simple; quite powerful circuits can be implemented using a voltage multiplier at minimal cost. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.

The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit using two field switches. The choice of field-effect transistors is quite large. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 and any other similar series.

The transformer is wound on a ferrite W-shaped core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese TVs, as well as in domestic televisions.

All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with 1 mm wire and consists of 2X5 turns. Next, you need to insulate the winding with 10 layers of transparent tape or secondary tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with 0.07-0.1 mm wire and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consisting of 80 turns wound evenly. After winding, we assemble the transformer; there is no need to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors of 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic televisions. Capacitors can be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.

Before you start

What is a stun gun

Therefore, the circuit will be slightly different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

By pressing the button, the igniting capacitor acts in the same way as in the original circuit - it is discharged to the transformer, and it gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

at the moment the spark appears, the fire capacitor is triggered, which sends all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no losses.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the result is the same, if not worse, stun gun, while being one and a half times smaller.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Making an output transformer

This is the most difficult part of making your own stun gun. Since it is impossible to make a standard layer transformer at home, we will simplify the design and make it sectional.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

If you don’t understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from scrap materials: wiring

Now it's time to look at the circuit diagram of the stun gun. It looks like this:

The igniting capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

The combat capacitor is charged through additional diodes.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last stage - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

solidity;
tightness;
electrical insulation.

To create, you will need the epoxy resin itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

Technical characteristics of homemade stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 g.

Device design:

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When the capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The housing can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an internal diameter of 8 mm, an external diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a jaw diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.

The idea of creating a stun gun with increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar industrial devices on myself. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat effectiveness only after 4...8 seconds of exposure, and only if you are lucky :) Needless to say, as a result of real use, such a shocker will most likely end up in the back seat of the owner.

Info: Our legislation allows shockers with an output power of no more than 3 J/sec (1 J/sec = 1 W) for mere mortals, while at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for air traffic police workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; The Americans, during experiments on volunteers, became convinced of the extreme ineffectiveness of 5...7 W shockers, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of the "AirTaser" from the company of the same name).

The device is created using EMD technology, and in other words, has increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, “feel the difference” :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when you press the trigger, two probes are fired from a cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes end up somewhere in the wrong place, It might turn out to be a mess. That's why they released a device with less power.

At first I made stun guns that were similar in efficiency to industrial ones (out of ignorance:). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun, worthy of being called a self-defense WEAPON. By the way, in addition to electric shockers, there are also PARALYZERS, but they do not steer at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.

The Mega Shocker's output parameters are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition frequency of 15...18 Hz and an energy of 1.75 J at a voltage of 50 Kv (since the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for one’s own health :), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2...2.4 J, and their repetition frequency - 20...30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35...50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).

The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:

Scheme: A control generator (PWM controller) is assembled on the DA1 chip, and a voltage converter 12v --> 500v is built on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged to 400...500 volts, the threshold unit on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1 is triggered, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated using formula 1.2 (E - energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (V)). At U = 450v and C = 23 μF, the energy will be 2.33 J. The response threshold is set by summary R14. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity and the circuit will burn out.

Capacitor C6 provides maximum power (“MAX”), C7 provides demonstration power (“DEMO”), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and/or draining the battery :) (when you turn on the “DEMO” mode, you also need to turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 µF). HL1 - a fluorescent lamp (LB4, LB6 or similar (C8 is selected)), placed for camouflage - so that the device looks like a sophisticated flashlight and does not arouse suspicion among various types of police officers and other individuals (otherwise they may be taken away, I had a case - they took it away similar device). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the indicated ratings f = ~17KHz. The R11 cap limits the output voltage; you can do without it altogether - just connect R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in the wrong polarity. The fuse is a fire safety fuse (for example: if a thread shorts somewhere, the battery may explode (there have been cases)).

Now for assembling the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder the pulse circuit (C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) by surface mounting, with the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.

T1 is wound on two ring cores made of M2000NM1 folded together, standard size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of 0.25 PEL is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 each contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8...1.0. They are wound simultaneously into two wires; the turns should be evenly distributed along the magnetic circuit.

T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be insulated from each other with film (paper, tape, etc.) The cross-sectional area of the core must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10...15 turns of PEL wire 1.0...1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000...1500 turns and is wound in layers of turn to turn, each winding layer is insulated with several layers of tape or capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conductor from the LDS lamp. Then it is all filled with epoxy resin. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully isolate from the secondary! Otherwise, something nasty might happen (the device may fail, or it may electrocute the owner. And it’s not a bad idea... Switch S1 is a type of fuse (with SUCH power, caution will not hurt), S2 is a button. switching on, both switches must be designed for a current of at least 10A.

A distinctive feature of the scheme is that everyone can configure it for themselves (in the sense of the enemy:) The output power of the device can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is inappropriate). And more than 75 is simply bad, because... with further increases in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, but the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will be a bit smaller.) Output voltage - 35...50 thousand volts. The discharge frequency must be at least 18...20 per second. Recommended parameters - 40 watts, single pulse energy 1.75 J at a voltage of 40 Kv. (if you lower the voltage, you can reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75 J at 40 Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15 J at 50 Kv. But making the voltage less than 35 Kv is inappropriate, since then the skin resistance, i.e., the current, will interfere in impulse will be insufficient).